I’ve been rather hush-hush on the Resort collections. There’s been a lot grabbing my attention (looking at you Gucci and Valentino), but I just wasn’t ready to jump on my blow horn. Then one of my low-key favourites wowed me with some crazy prints, fish skins, and sustainable fashion. Osklen, you have my heart.
I am painfully in love with Hedi Slimane. Always have been and I always will be. It speaks volumes about his skill that even Karl Lagerfeld fangirls over him. I’ve been on the edge of my seat with all the talk that he’s stepping down from Saint Laurent. He’s brought back the edgy glam of YSL’s 70s and 80s collections. Everyone’s been squawking about it not being ladylike but Yves invented Le Smoking…the most deliciously gender bending wardrobe edition EVER. So, in my mind, Slimane is perfect with all his glam badassery.
This collection was giving me some serious Rosie Perez on Soul Train vibes. Especially in those tiny little dresses. I can just picture Rosie gyrating and thrusting in those. Imagine it with me.
But really. Amazing. I’m personally sick of the tacky Molly Ringwald version of the 80s. There’s so much more to the 80s than what the hipsters of the world lead you to believe. There was glamour, dancing, sequins, and copious amounts of cocaine. There was Helmut Newton. If it was his last show, it was a great farewell. Especially with that heart-shaped coat that was part Looney Toon’s Gossamer and part Lady Gaga über glam. Loved it but fingers crossed that Hedi stays or I’ll scream furiously.
Carousels. Ballerinas. Butterflies. Cowgirls. Oh my.
I literally cannot get enough of this collection. I’m also noticing a butterfly trend? Do I like that? It might be growing on me. Do I like that it’s growing on me? I’m not really sure. Emotions, I have them. It is like a childhood dream come true and stuck on a shirt dress. All of the imagery kind of reminded me of Lisa Grue and Michael Economy’s illustrations for Anna Sui, which I can really get down with.
If this entire show could be turned into a glamorously whimsical colouring book for adults, I’d be so happy. I’m over the moon right now. I want to break out my Breyer horses, Sky Dancers, tulle tutus, and cover it all in glitter. Ah. Yes. Bliss.
I cannot handle this collection by Ashish. Except that oh my gaaawwwwd, I want it all. Naturally the first things I thought of were Muppets, rainbows, and disco. This is what I’m talking about for New Year’s Eve. I love sequins but not the plain ol’ black and silver thing that everyone else does. I want to stand out. Like a Muppet dancing the night away in Studio 54.
Thank you, Asish. Thank you.
I was devastated at the loss of Lee Alexander McQueen, so I will never fully accept Sarah Burton. She’s very good but she’s not a dreamer like Lee was. I like her collections generally but I’m not rolling around on the floor weeping over the poetry in motion. I’ll just get that bag of worms out of the way. It’s how I feel and how I will always feel. You just cannot go from “Highland Rape” controversy to well executed and pretty.
Anyway, I did like this season. It’s dreamy, pretty, and reminds me of a modern John William Waterhouse dream. Or maybe something from the pages of Neil Gaiman’s Sandman (a little Delirium, a little Lady Death). Being a naked princess is next to godliness and this collection delivered it. Although, I think butterflies are cliché. Burton, according to Vogue, described her woman as: “Almost sleepwalking, in a state where reality and dreams become blurred.”
Between the Savile Row-quality tailoring of some mannish suits and the final dresses made up of nothing more than a dream…she got a little closer to the original McQueen mark.